Posts made by Barlium

Hello! I'm a long time fan of Flic buttons and have about 20 of them around the house. I have an issue where several of my old Gen 1 buttons have stopped working with the constant red issue in the referenced thread below. Knowing that the buttons require 2.2 volts to boot the firmware I tested my batteries. I found my freshest one (3.2v) and put it in one of the problematic buttons. I took the board out and measured the voltage with the battery in and found that the board is only receiving 2.02v.

I'm guessing that some of the soldered components are starting to corrode or crack on the Gen 1 buttons. In my case it's about 25% of them.

Not really much to do about that I guess but perhaps this thread will save another Flic fan some time and heartache.

-chris

Re: Flic gen 1 button constant red light

@Barlium Ahhhh dang. Stupid mistake on my part but I'll leave this post up in case anyone else is a dummy like me.

I started a manual routine, but didn't see that there's a save button as it was hidden under my phone's keyboard. Flic wasn't finding my scenes because I edited them but never saved them. I didn't see the obvious solution because I was blinded by both my keyboard and my confusion over the nomenclature.

Don't be like me.

I'm attempting to set up some basic automation using smartthings and flic for the first time. There's a tremendous amount of info available regarding how to use "scenes" to assign flic functions. It seems Samsung has reworked the scenes feature and have rebranded it "manually run routines".

Is there any new guidance on how to make this work with Flic going forward?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

@Barlium said in Flic Twist Mechanical Malfunction:

Hello. I received my Flic twists today and have started setting up the first one. Right away there is a problem with the assembly. There's a sort of loose fit to the dial that makes contact when it's handled or jiggled at all. It makes contact from the bottom end of the range to the top.
For example, when using advanced dimming I set three lights on various set points such that at the low end of the range (all the way left), they are all off, and at the top end (all the way right) they are all on 100%. Unfortunately, when I get to the far left of the range, any amount of jiggle causes one of the lights that's supposed to be off to come on at 100% for a moment and go back off.
So if I mount this dial on a door and it gets jostled or if I turn it to the left, one of my lights strobes for for a bit until it settles back down.

I'm still deciding if I should open the second one or not. Any feedback from the devs would be appreciated.

Edit:
After more testing and playing with other settings, this is definitely not going to work. It looks like there's maybe just too much slop between the dial and the face plate or something. The whole dial slides left and right like a half mm or so and that's enough to trigger actions unintentionally.

If I set the lights to some rgb setting using push+twist, even simply letting go of the dial is enough to cause it to twitch into place and make contact. This means most of the time when setting something with push+twist, I let go of the dial and it just jumps to a regular twist setting.

I have a theory, in case its helpful to the team. I'm an engineer in medical device manufacturing and have seen it happen a million times (not as scary as that sounds as there are very good down stream controls!). If you have a quantity of the parts made using the original revision mold (the one with the poor fit) and you didn't perform a thorough line clearance and maintain a strict quarantine, it's entirely possible the parts made it back into general population. Hopefully this is a very limited problem, and you'll just be able to swap out the few defective units.

It is SO CLOSE to being a great product, but this bug makes it unusable for my wife and kids so I'll need to send it back. I'm hopeful support will help come to a satisfactory solution.

Thanks!

Hello. I received my Flic twists today and have started setting up the first one. Right away there is a problem with the assembly. There's a sort of loose fit to the dial that makes contact when it's handled or jiggled at all. It makes contact from the bottom end of the range to the top.
For example, when using advanced dimming I set three lights on various set points such that at the low end of the range (all the way left), they are all off, and at the top end (all the way right) they are all on 100%. Unfortunately, when I get to the far left of the range, any amount of jiggle causes one of the lights that's supposed to be off to come on at 100% for a moment and go back off.
So if I mount this dial on a door and it gets jostled or if I turn it to the left, one of my lights strobes for for a bit until it settles back down.

I'm still deciding if I should open the second one or not. Any feedback from the devs would be appreciated.

I just got a Flic Hub and I have about nine buttons. No button is greater than 25 feet away from the hub with very little impediment. Several of the buttons seem to enter standby much more frequently than others and when they do, they become very slow to respond if they respond at all. I've replaced the batteries and it doesn't seem to help. All in all, the Flic system has been great when it works, but super frustrating as it works so sporadically.

Personally, I have the patience to keep tweaking and trouble shooting , but when my wife gets up at 2am to feed the baby, pushes the button and the light does nothing... She's furious with ME. I got the hub specifically to make this more reliable, but in my experience, the hub hasn't really contributed much of anything.