@Emil Did you also add the "Copy config" function - or did I just miss it, when I suggested a backup function?

Hey @flicflop!

I nearly have a workaround for getting the twist events on the hub. Maybe you have some thoughts on it https://community.flic.io/topic/18405/flic-twist-feature-request-advanced-position-triggers-actions

@Emil Alright! Thanks for helping us figure this out. I submitted the request with a link to this topic. 🙏

@Emil thanks Emil. Mine is working too after the Sonos v16 update.

@Emil: hello Emil.. I am sorry for coming back with all my strange problems..
Now: In the app settings on my Android-phone sorrily I can't find a "Submit debug log"..

But: There seems to be a strange time-delay between changing something at the Buttons and the change taking effect or showing up:

The one I wrote about yesterday misteriously disconnecting after some seconds now over night suddenly stays connected and works fine.. (Lights up green when pressed) The other one which worked yesterday I altered to Universal mode today to emulate a keyboard key.. - First it seemed to not accept the "store and disconnect"-action.. - It was not possible to connect it via Bluetooth to a laptop (..did not show up in the BT-list after pressing..).. - But after letting it alone for some hours it suddenly works as HID.. (blinking 2 times yellow when pressed)..

I would be happy to understand what is going on here..

🙂

Thank you for your patience
Best greetings
Jörn
-----------------------***

I am using the flic buttons + hub with http requests.
So you can start the flow with a http request trigger of homey logic.
This works very well, skipping the flic homey app and has a much, much better performance and works even if your internet connection is down.
You just have to configure a static IP for Homey to do that. Why sending a www request around the globe for triggering your light 2m away from the button?
Edit: works as well with advanced flows

Since I'd been having a lot of trouble getting this working, and I assume others will as well, the issue with the 10 second press to reset is the device it's currently paired to cannot be connected to it.

In my case, I have Flic buttons paired with Raspberry Pi devices. To unpair it, I had to turn off the service that was listening for Flic button presses. Once I did that, the button lit up red when clicked. This is the indication I needed so I could reset it. At that point, I was able to pair it to another device the same way as a fresh button.

hey, thanks. It works:)

Spotify is built in Chromecast. However, in order to cast Spotify on Chromecast, you have to subscribe to the Spotify premium membership. Or alternatively you can try to download Spotify songs as MP3, then you can transfer the MP3 songs to Chromecast for using freely.

Any news?

@oskar tried this, IFTTT still doesn't register clicks?! Please help, I'm £100 down and need IFTTT to do what I purchased them for.

Hello again. It turns out that this was in fact an issue introduced with iOS 13. This has now been fixed and will be released new week. Sorry for the inconvenience 😞

I know your post is old, but I've been struggling too with connecting Flic 2 and Home Assistant. Using Flicd addon didn't give a stable integration, but this is a workaround I've found was quite stable. Works only with a Flic Hub and Apple Homekit running!

In Home Assistant, set up an input boolean for single, double and hold for each Flic button. That's three input booleans for each button. Then expose Home Assistant to Homekit via the Homekit integration. You should now be able to control Home Assistant entities in Homekit, including your new input booleans. In the Flic app, set up your Flic button to run through Homekit In Homekit app, set up the button to turn on the input booleans corresponding to single, double and hold press. You can now create automations in Home Assistant, that fires when the states for your input booleans turn on. Also make an automation that turns off the input booleans again.

This is now working (at least I can program my flic2 to do this through the app on iPad) along with Mouse and Keyboard commands

@leonardchrist I know I'm super late to the party, but the fact that the hub never ACKs the SYN ACK, plus the fact that it then re-xmits the SYN makes it seem like it never gets anything back. A couple obvious things to check would be the SN mask, and any possible ACLs/VLAN config on the switch ports. Alternatively, you could swap the PC/Hub switch ports and see if the behavior changes at all.

Alternatively, you could take a deeper look at the SYN ACK from the PC and compare it to the successful equivalent from the WiFi scenario. Hardware failure on the switchport, or hub, might cause it to fail MAC checksums.

Dumb response - asking why serial number is required. Clearly not a good developer - It should be patently obvious that Homekit uses button Serial number not Hub button name.
Therefore, if you have a number of buttons it becomes a chore to identify which is which, e.g. lounge appliance button or kitchen appliance button

@stevehooper yes!

@yea I find your story very strange for a couple of reasons.

First, the Flic hub uses "locally administered addresses", which is indicated by b1 in the first byte of the MAC address (0x9A = 0b10011010). Such addresses cannot be looked up in an OUI registry. It's not a "fake address". It's just not a "globally administered address". This relates exactly to how "static random addresses" is commonly used nowadays in Bluetooth Low Energy compared to "Public addresses" in order to avoid the hassle with address registration in the production, since nobody believes that a 48-bit randomly generated address could be duplicated on a local network.

Now, if you have a gateway in your house in front of your LAN that connects to the internet, all internet traffic the ISP will see will contain the MAC address of your gateway, not any MAC address on your local network since that will be rewritten by your gateway.

Any DHCP traffic should also exist solely on your local network and should not be seen by an ISP.

The Flic hub runs the firmware from a read only memory, so I've hard to see that an intruder could have added some botnet software on it.

The Flic hub should only send NTP, DNS, DHCP, and mDNS traffic, as well as communicating with our backend over TLS. (And of course perform the actions you assign flic buttons)

I'd be glad to get more logs or info on what this "suspicious traffic" might be.

@Emil I think I figured it out. The problem is with the Hub. I'll retry once I fix the issue.

@xappo Yeah MQTT would make the flic buttons useful again. Hope someone at flic realizes this. I have been nagging about it in every place I can find.