The Flic Twist was delivered today and I tested it right away.
The MusicCast volume control works perfectly with it.
@rob.loosx Thank you very much for the script 😉

@Emil No noticable latency actually. I just did a A-B test where I compared the response time to a Flic 2 with Spotifty play/toggle, and I can't really tell the difference. The volume control is also smooth.

Andreas

@buckyswider You can remove a non-responding Matter device, but in that case the Flic hub pairing will not be removed from the Matter device in question.

@wes I would look into the Matter libraries for Arduino. However the Flic hub Mini IS in fact a ESP32 S3. Access to the bootloader/flash etc. is literally cut off. Who would have known 😆

I have the new app installed and have successfully setup flic twists to control the volumes in 3 different Biamp Cambridge Zones. Thank you for the feature!

@wpjvanderven this is fixed in version 4.0.13 which should now be available on Google Play. If not, please wait for Google to roll out the new version.

@alexgooz92fs Nice to hear that!

It seems the issue doesn't affect all users. I my self can for example use the Alexa actions I set up previously, before their outage, successfully today without the need to re-enable the skill or re-setup anything.

Note that the http request containing the button press event that is sent to Alexa's server when a Flic button is pressed, sent from us, looks the same both before and after their outage, so if it suddenly doesn't work after their outage, it seems at least to me something has been broken on their end for you it doesn't work for. However, if you added an additional Alexa action during the time they had an outage, that action might not have been synced correctly so in that case you might need to remove the Alexa action and add it back in the Flic app.

@tomtec Flic uses Bluetooth Low Energy. BLE uses frequency hopping and may thus jump between different channels in the whole allocated spectrum.

thank you. it works good for me 🙂

@garryjoss @andy-henderson Depending on when you purchased your Flics we did have an adhesive a while which became quite soft over time which made it a bit more difficult to open the battery hatch.

All Flic adhesives have always been washable, so you can carefully clean them with water to freshen up the adhesion. You can rub them with water and maybe even some dishsoap and let it air dry. Don't hold it under water as water may enter and damage the electronics.

Other alternatives are as Andy mentioned, you could use a scissor if you're careful.

We have since changed the adhesive, the latest version is much better than the previous. The adhesives are available separately on our shop.

Feel free to contact our support and we're happy to help you further if none of the above works!

@Emil That's a shame they don't provide the "static" Groups in their API. Yes, checkboxes versus radio buttons would be a game changer. Thanks. Mike

@petter-landing-0r the red LED blinking typically indicates low battery. Did you try a fresh one?

Hi,

One of the most recently added providers is the Matter provider. Matter is a common protocol that many devices now implement so that every manufacturer doesn't have to provide their own proprietary protocol.

Matter is supported by e.g. Govee and Shelly.

@gj The new apps now display the serial number of the buttons in the button info.

@Emil Apologies for disappearing for a bit. I was clicking the red trash-can icon as you suggested, however this didn't appear to change firmware upgrade behavior.

Since it seems like whatever issue is occurring might be device-specific, I'll move this to a support ticket to reduce spam for others following this thread.

edit: Factory-resetting the Hub seems to have fixed it? I had some trouble getting the factory-default password to apply when connecting from a new phone - a couple of resets were needed, but deleting the hub from DM after resetting and immediately triggering a firmware update seems to have gotten my Hub onto 4.4.6.

@gordon-0 As the "Internet Request" action in the app is designed, it unfortunately does not contain any type of cryptographic signature that you can verify to make sure the request (when received) itself actually originated from the press of the button. The only thing you can do is to provide credentials or something in the headers of the Internet Request, but those you have to design and implement yourself.

@starstruckpigeon is it the Android or iOS app that is crashing? What app version do you have?